Happy Holidays from Fenghuang

DisclaimerThe views and opinions expressed in this article are my own, and do not necessarily reflect those of WorldTeach or its affiliates.

I hope everyone had a happy holidays, and that everyone has a safe and happy New Year!

My cohort Caileigh and I went to Fenghuang in western Hunan to celebrate the Christmas weekend. According to legend, Fenghuang (Chinese for “phoenix”—coincidentally, also the Chinese name I chose for myself) got its name because two phoenixes flew over the town and found it so beautiful that they were reluctant to leave (source). It’s known as a home for the Miao ethnic minority. Notable people from this town include Shen Congwen (a writer that has contributed to the development of modern Chinese literature), Xiong Xiling (the first premier of the Republic of China following the overthrow of the Qing Dynasty), and Huang Yongyu (a contemporary Chinese painter) (source).

I live a stone’s throw away from Zhangjiajie City, so I was able to get on a bus to Zhangjiajie and then get on a bus to Fenghuang from there. Be advised: Fenghuang has no train station, so trains are not an option. It’s about five hours by bus from Changsha, and three to three-and-a-half hours from Zhangjiajie. I felt like I was getting sick that day so it probably felt a lot longer than it actually was, but I was able to fit in some of Sarah J. Maas’s A Court of Thorns and Roses on Audible, so that’s good.

My entrance into Fenghuang was after dark, and each lamppost had a phoenix light display—it was then that I knew we were in Fenghuang. My taxi stopped at Hongqiao (虹桥), a pedestrian-only bridge with a lot of shopping. After I crossed Hongqiao, I was now in the old city, and I had to walk the rest of the way to my youth hostel.

Our youth hostel (AirBnB) was in a side street of the old city part of Fenghuang. The place is really clean, well-decorated in an old-world style (which I can appreciate), and—HOLY MEMORY FOAM—it had the softest mattress we’ve slept on in the five months we’ve been in China. According to the AirBnB site, the host spoke English, but since both Caileigh and I speak Chinese, we didn’t really push to see how much English she knew.

We spent a lot of time walking around the town, ducking into cute little shops (and petting some cute cats and dogs, in Caileigh’s case; we both recognize the health risks of petting animals in China, so proceed with caution). It was a really sunny day and even if it was supposed to be 17˚C that day (62˚F, which is a bit chilly for a Floridian like me), it felt really warm in the sunshine (but then again, I had a fever so take everything I say with a grain of salt).

Side street in Fenghuang with hanging decorations

We stopped at a café that looked like something out of a Studio Ghibli movie named 影子咖啡 (Yingzi Kafei). We spent a great time enjoying coffee and looking out on the Tuojiang River, not far from the step-bridge that is in all the photos of Fenghuang on Pinterest.

Yingzi Kafei

View of the Tuojiang River from Yingzi Kafei

In the evening, we went to a nearby restaurant (one of the perks of being in Fenghuang is that nearly everything is within walking distance) and went nuts with pasta, fries, and their take on garlic bread (which was like regular toast with roasted garlic but hey, we still ate it). There appeared to be a lot of bars and music venues in Fenghuang (which makes sense, considering its tourist appeal), but neither of us are bar-hopping people so we went back to our hostel and listened to the music they were playing there. Since it was Christmas Eve, our host gave us apples! (It’s apparently a Chinese tradition to give apples on Christmas Eve.) The next day was spent heading back to our sites, since we both had fairly long journeys home.

I think we could have spent another day here, taking in all that the town and the surrounding scenery had to offer, but I think we did a lot for the time we had there. I think we both had a really good time in Fenghuang, and I’m glad we were able to go!

I’m looking forward to winter break in the coming months! I have some ideas for traveling, and I hope that they can become reality. Once again, I hope everyone has a safe and happy holiday season, and I hope to see you in the new year with new content! See you then! Zai jian!

View of the Tuojiang River

4 Comments on “Happy Holidays from Fenghuang

    • My doctor said it was concerns about rabies and other nasties, especially from street animals. I don’t know if what Chinese people say is rabies is always the case and not something like cat scratch fever, but regardless, it’s definitely not something you want.

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